On the Scalinata della Matrice, or Staircase of the Mother Church/Staircase of the Mold, the two being inextricable from one another in a town known for its ceramics tradition: the pilgrimage toward an end becoming an end in itself, the via, spectacular, occupied with lit-up nativity personages and designing flowers, the church facade not even visible but laterally. And the days unfurnaced begin to get longer.